Day 5


Brocolitia to East Wallhouses


The Carraw B & B did not disappoint. We had a wonderful supper of creamed onion soup, sourdough baguettes, and the English version of a charcuterie board—the ploughman platter (half a small meat pie, half an apple, simple green salad, a large wedge of Stilton cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, a hard boiled egg, rhubarb chutney). In the morning we enjoyed a good breakfast and set off. The innkeeper was seeing her three children off to school as we left.

It was a blustery day with 14 miles to cover. We’ve had at least a little bit of rain every day but one, and at this point it doesn’t phase us. Some Bostonians we met and chatted with who were coming from the opposite direction recommended we stop at The Riverside Kitchen in Chollerford. It was the first coffee and tea house we had seen for days, and the hot beverages, scones, and clotted cream were a treat!

Today was much easier walking, with comparatively flat terrain. There was still quite a bit of the wall visible and continued beautiful scenery. The pastures with cattle and sheep never get old. Sheep, especially, make me laugh. There are so many varieties and colors, and they have funny faces. When one of the big ones takes off running, it’s a ridiculous sight!

We’ve become adept at using the various types of gates along the path. They’re all designed to allow hikers pass through (especially those of us city folks who can’t be trusted to close gates behind us) and prevent livestock from escaping.

My favorite type, which is the most common on much of the path, is the “kissing gate,” which allows one person through at a time. You push the gate forward, back into an enclosed triangular area, push the gate back into place, and walk on through. The only kissing that goes on is the gate “kissing” one side and then the other. There’s no way an animal can navigate it.

Also very common are several types of stiles. One type is like an A-frame ladder that straddles a stone wall. There are sturdy handles to grab at the top. These are not my favorites, as I’m getting a little tired of climbing up and over.

There are also simpler stiles where stone slabs protrude from stone walls and act as steps to allow people to cross over.

Once in a while, there’s what we would consider a more standard gate with a latch—but most passageways are designed with clueless humans in mind. All the gates and stiles are very sturdy.

We arrived at the Robin Hood Inn in East Wallhouses late in the afternoon, settled into our room, and before we knew it, the fire alarm went off. Some other guests had plugged in a hair dryer, and it was too much for the electrical system, apparently. The innkeeper got that “sorted” (as the British like to say), and all was well.

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